I had just returned from a 10-day odyssey through the wild, untamed heart of Iceland—a land where fire and ice coexist in a breathtaking dance. But let me tell you, this wasn’t your typical vacation. There were no poolside loungers or museum strolls here (ok maybe we did dip into a few geothermal baths!!). Instead, this trip was about embracing the raw, elemental beauty of Iceland from the snug yet adventurous confines of a tiny camper van. For 8 days and 7 nights, my friend, Grace, and I navigated the country’s majestic landscapes, with the famed Ring Road (Hwy 1) as our guide, winding through volcanic plains, past towering waterfalls, and along dramatic coastlines. We wrapped up the journey in the warm embrace of a cozy Airbnb in Reykjavik, where we finally had the chance to unwind, reflect, and soak in all that we had experienced.
My goal for this post is simple: I want to take you along on this extraordinary journey as I reminisce about each day’s discoveries, challenges, and moments of awe. I’ll walk you through our daily adventures, share some laughs, and then—if you’re up for it—delve into the heartfelt reflections and existential musings that Iceland stirred within me. To make your journey even easier, I’ve included a Google Maps list of all the places described in this blog post. So, if you’re ready, buckle up and join me as I relive this unforgettable trip!
Table of contents
- Pre-trip planning
- Daily diary
- Downloadable Google Maps list of all the places we visited
- Personal Reflection
Pre-trip planning
When it came to planning this trip, we kept things pretty loose. Aside from booking our cute lil camper van, a glacier hike, and a cozy AirBnb in Reykjavik for the end of the journey, we left much of the adventure up to chance. We had a very detailed Google Doc, courtesy of a friend who had recently traveled to Iceland (thanks Mia!), filled with recommendations for must-see spots. This document quickly became our go-to guide as we decided where to head each day.
One interesting thing we learned during our pre-trip research was that in Iceland, it’s not customary to book campsites online. Instead, it’s a first-come, first-serve situation, and it’s actually quite rare for a campsite to be fully booked. This bit of knowledge gave us the freedom to roam without the pressure of strict reservations, knowing that we could always find a spot to rest for the night.
Day 0 - Sunday, August 4th, 2024
The Travel Day That Almost Wasn’t
Ah, the beginning of our Icelandic escapade was a whirlwind of unexpected twists and emotional highs and lows! Despite the convenience of a direct flight from Raleigh-Durham (RDU) to Keflavik (KEF), I opted for a more circuitous route, choosing a connecting flight out of JFK airport. Why, you ask? Well, my travel buddy for this adventure, Grace, who calls Long Island, NY her home, was flying out of JFK. I thought it would be far more delightful to join forces and embark on our Icelandic journey together, soaking in the excitement as a duo.
But then, the universe threw a curveball—just four hours before takeoff, I received that dreaded notification: my RDU to JFK flight had been canceled due to weather. A quick check confirmed my worst fears—flights from Raleigh, and seemingly from the entire Southeast, weren’t heading to New York that day. Panic set in as I scrambled to find any possible way to reach New York in time to catch our connecting flight to Iceland. No luck.
Delta rescheduled me for a flight the following day, which meant I wouldn’t arrive in Iceland until Tuesday morning instead of the planned Monday morning. I was crushed. But I did my best to stay composed and reached out to my friend Cass (hi Cass, ilysm!) for some much-needed support. She gave me some solid advice: “Go to the airport anyway, get in line, and talk to a human being.” This was after I’d been on hold with Delta for an eternity, with an estimated wait time of 2 hours and 45 minutes!
So, I headed to the airport, parked my car in the closest lot, and got in line to speak with an agent. My nerves were frayed, and I was mentally preparing myself to accept the fate of arriving a day late in Iceland. Grace and I even rehearsed what I should say to the agent, like asking for compensation for the unused portion of my flight, and I was seriously considering buying a one-way ticket directly from RDU to KEF, since that flight was still miraculously operating.
After an hour in line, surrounded by equally frustrated travelers, I finally reached the counter. I approached the agent, spilling out my rehearsed lines at lightning speed, showing her the screen with the Iceland Air flight I had been eyeing. She had to gently stop me, saying, “Whoa, whoa, it’s okay, calm down. We’ll get you to Iceland.” And guess what? She did just that—she booked me on the direct flight from RDU to Iceland at no additional cost!
Relieved and overjoyed, I returned to my car, thanking the universe for this unexpected stroke of luck. I moved my car from the pricey parking deck to the economy lot, hopped on the shuttle, and made my way back to the airport. Before I knew it, I was on the plane, and when I woke up, I was in Iceland. ♡
Left RDU in the evening and woke up in Iceland! Wheeeeee!
Day 1 - Monday, August 5th, 2024
START: KEF International Airport
The day started early for me—my flight from RDU landed at Keflavik International Airport around 6:30 AM, a full three hours before Grace’s flight was due to arrive from JFK. Despite the early hour and the whirlwind of the previous day’s events, I was simply overjoyed to be in Iceland. It still felt surreal that everything had worked out, and there I was, standing on Icelandic soil. While I waited for Grace, I took out my journal and poured my heart onto the pages. I wrote about my immense gratitude for the present moment, my disbelief that I had actually made it, and my bubbling excitement for the adventure ahead. I also took a moment to process the tumultuous emotions I had already experienced—it felt like the perfect way to ground myself before the journey truly began.
When Grace’s flight finally touched down, we greeted each other with shrieks of excitement, both of us giddy with anticipation. We quickly found our Happy Campers shuttle, guided by a driver in a lime green uniform (the same shade of green as the building). As we headed towards the van, I couldn’t help but feel a little silly dragging my massive, floral hard-shell suitcase along the bumpy sidewalk. The thought crossed my mind—would all our luggage even fit in our mobile home for the next eight days? (luckily, it did!)
Our home for the next week!
Grace took the first driving shift, and I gratefully took a nap as rain drizzled down, lulling me into a peaceful rest. Our only official plan for the day was to pick up groceries and make it to our campsite at Skogafoss, about three hours away. Along the way, we stopped at Keflavik for a hot meal and to stock up on supplies before continuing our journey.
We made a couple of spontaneous stops along the way, including a visit to a hot spring and the bridge between two continents—a literal meeting point of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
Gunnuhver hot springs above; bridge between continents below
The landscape we drove through was nothing short of breathtaking. Little did we know at the time, but the rocky terrain we were marveling at was made of ancient lava rocks! The scene felt like something out of a post-apocalyptic world, with jagged rocks scattered like the remnants of long-forgotten structures. Yet, nature had reclaimed it all, with lush greenery softening the starkness of the rocks, making the whole landscape look strangely beautiful and serene.
Me chilling on a lava rocks!
As the rain continued to fall, we swapped driving duties, and it was my turn to take the wheel. Driving through this landscape was nothing short of magical—every turn revealed something new, and I found myself saying “wow” over and over again. At one point, we had to pull over just to admire a waterfall near Skogar. The sight was so stunning, I couldn’t just drive past it.
We also spotted one of those fairy houses I had heard about—small, grass-covered mounds that resemble hobbit homes. These traditional Icelandic turf houses are steeped in folklore, often believed to be the homes of elves or hidden people. Seeing one in person added a touch of enchantment to the day.
We finally arrived at our campsite, Skogafoss, right in front of the mighty Skogafoss waterfall. The setting was absolutely unreal. The waterfall thundered down with incredible force, and there was a hiking trail nearby that beckoned to be explored. The campsite facilities might have been basic, but the location was nothing short of perfect. Grace whipped up a delicious dinner of mashed potatoes and chicken, and after we ate, we decided to explore the fairy house we had seen earlier. It was every bit as magical as I had imagined.
By 10:00 PM, Grace was ready to turn in for the night, but I still had adrenaline coursing through my veins. So, I decided to take a solo hike up to the top of the waterfall. Standing there at 11:00 PM, with the summer sun still casting a soft glow over the landscape, I felt completely at peace. The sun had officially set at 10:30 PM, but the sky was still light enough to see clearly—a surreal experience in itself. The view from the top was beyond words, and as I stood there, marveling at the beauty surrounding me, I knew this was just the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.
Eventually, I made my way back down, still in awe of the day’s experiences, and settled into our camper van for the night.
Phew! What a day!
END: Skógar tjaldsvæði
Day 2 - Tuesday, August 6th, 2024
START: Skógar tjaldsvæði
We woke up to the sound of Skogafoss waterfall, its roar a constant reminder of where we were—right in the heart of Iceland’s untamed beauty. After a quick breakfast, Grace and I decided to tackle a hike up the mountain right by our campsite. As we climbed, the universe decided to bless us with something truly magical: a rainbow arched gracefully beside us, adding a splash of color to the already stunning landscape. It felt like a good omen for the day ahead.
Rainbow as we ascended the waterfall in the video above; more trails beyond the waterfall in the photo below.
After a brief walk at the top, we made our way back down to prepare for the main adventure of the day—a glacier hike. We met our guide at a nearby shopping center, where we boarded a jacked-up 4x4 vehicle, the kind that can handle anything Iceland throws at it—rocky terrain, river crossings, and even glaciers. The drive to the glacier was exhilarating, a bumpy ride that only heightened our anticipation.
Before we set off on the hike, our guide did something I’ll never forget. He fed an arctic fox that had come up to us, and as if on cue, a raven swooped in to join the feast. It was a brief, wild moment that made me feel even more connected to the raw, untamed nature of this place.
As we trekked across the glacier, our guide shared with us a phrase that has deep roots in Icelandic culture: “Þetta reddast.” He explained that it loosely translates to “it will be okay,” but the meaning runs much deeper. It’s about trusting that, no matter what happens, things will work out. Icelanders have a unique approach to life, especially given the unpredictability of their volcanic homeland. They don’t cling to rigid plans or detailed itineraries because, in a place like this, you just never know what might happen next. That philosophy hit home for me—little did I know how much it would resonate in the days to come… dun dun dun dun!
After the glacier hike, we made a couple of spontaneous stops. First, we visited the Yoda Cave, a quirky little spot that, yes, bears a striking resemblance to the wise Jedi himself.
View from the inside of the cave in the photo above; view from the outside of the cave in the photo below.
Then, we made our way to Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, where we hiked a quick two-mile trail. The canyon was absolutely breathtaking, with steep cliffs and winding paths that made us feel like we were walking through a fairytale.
As we reflected on our day, Grace and I couldn’t help but giggle at how packed it had been. We’d experienced so many different terrains—glaciers, caves, canyons—that it felt like we had lived through three separate days instead of just one. The variety of landscapes made it feel as though we were traveling through different worlds, each more stunning than the last.
With no more activities booked for the day, we made an executive decision that would shape the rest of our trip: no going backwards! From this point on, we would only move forward, following Iceland’s main highway, Route 1, as it loops around the island. The idea was simple—keep moving forward, embracing whatever came our way, with no detailed plans to hold us back.
We ended the day at Skaftafell campsite, nestled within the stunning Vatnajökull National Park. As we settled in for the night, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the day’s adventures and the wisdom we had gained along the way. Þetta reddast—it really will be okay.
View from the campsite in the photo above; enjoying dinner in the photo below.
END: Skaftafell tjaldsvæði
Day 3 - Wednesday, August 7th, 2024
START: Skaftafell tjaldsvæði
Waking up at Skaftafell campsite felt like waking up in a dream. This place was a slice of paradise, with trails that seemed to spring right out of the ground, beckoning us to explore. We started our day by hiking one of these trails, leading to a waterfall that was nothing short of mesmerizing. The waterfall itself was surrounded by these fascinating geometric rocks—columnar basalt formations created when lava cools and contracts, forming natural hexagons. It was like nature’s own sculpting masterpiece, and we stood there in awe, marveling at how these ancient forces had shaped the landscape.
After soaking in the beauty of the waterfall, we continued our journey and stopped at a glacier viewpoint. The sight of the massive icebergs floating serenely in the lagoon was a stark reminder of the power and fragility of nature. These icebergs, as they melt, get washed up onto the nearby shore, and then the waves push them back onto the beach, creating the stunning phenomenon known as Diamond Beach. The sparkling ice fragments against the black sand make it look like the beach is studded with diamonds. We learned that sometimes, if the sun has been shining brightly, the beach might be bare—no icebergs in sight. But that’s the magic of this place; it’s always changing, and if you don’t see the icebergs on your first visit, it’s worth coming back because you never know what the next tide will bring.
The glaciers in the photo above eventually melt and break of, causing them to drift ashore into the infamous diamond beach, pictured below.
In need of a little relaxation after all our exploring, we made a quick stop at a small, quaint hot tub spot. It was the perfect, cozy way to unwind at the end of a day packed with adventures. The warm water soothed our muscles and spirits, leaving us refreshed and ready to head to our next campsite.
But just as we were settling in for the evening, ready to enjoy a simple dinner of ramen, a small hiccup turned our night upside down. A fellow camper approached us to let us know we had a flat tire. Ugh. We immediately set about trying to change it ourselves, but the task quickly proved to be more challenging than we expected. The spare tire was stuck, secured by screws that were so rusty we couldn’t budge them, and to top it off, our wrench was faulty.
In a moment of desperation, we FaceTimed Tommy, Grace’s boyfriend (hi Tommy thx so much for ur emotional support), for some long-distance assistance. He did his best to guide us, but ultimately, we were stuck. As the clock ticked closer to midnight, we made the call to roadside assistance, but even they recommended we wait until morning to deal with the issue since we were already safely parked at our campsite.
As the reality of the situation sank in, so did the worry. We couldn’t help but shed a few tears, imagining how the next day might be ‘wasted’ dealing with this flat tire instead of exploring more of Iceland’s wonders. But then, I remembered the phrase that had already become a mantra for this trip: Þetta reddast. It’ll be okay. We had done everything we could in that moment—asked for help, tried our best, and now it was time to let go. No amount of worrying about tomorrow would change what was happening now. What we needed to do was rest. And so, that’s what we did.
END: Vestrahorn tjaldsvæði
Day 4 - Thursday, August 8th, 2024
START: Vestrahorn tjaldsvæði
We woke up on Day 4 ready to tackle the flat tire situation with a sense of determination and a dash of Þetta reddast optimism. We called the 24/7 roadside assistance first thing in the morning, and to our relief, they arrived in less than an hour. The mechanic quickly patched up our tire—no need to even touch the spare, which was a huge relief.
However, remembering our struggles from the night before, we asked him to help us with those stubborn screws holding the spare tire in place. Even with his automatic tool, he struggled to loosen them. It turns out we were this close to getting it off ourselves! He ended up using oil from under the hood of his car to lubricate the screws, just in case we needed to remove them in the future. Fingers crossed that we wouldn’t have to, but at least we were a little more prepared.
With the tire fixed and the day still young, we treated ourselves to a nice breakfast at a local café. Although Vestrahorn has plenty to offer—trails, a beach, a lighthouse, and even a Viking TV set used for movies and shows—Grace and I decided to move on and continue our journey. After the tire ordeal, we were eager to hit the road.
“We deserve this breakfast!!”
Our first stop was Lækjavik beach, where we couldn’t resist snapping some photos. The black sand, formed from ancient lava flows, created a striking contrast against the waves—a perfect spot to capture the wild beauty of Iceland.
Next, we stopped in the charming port town of Djúpivogur for lunch. I indulged in some ice cream, while Grace went for the famous Icelandic hot dogs. We did a little shopping, soaking in the town’s quaint atmosphere before moving on.
We continued our journey with a stop at a picturesque bird-watching house—so cute and serene, it felt like stepping into a postcard.
Afterward, we made our way to Hafnarnesviti, an eerie yet beautiful spot with village ruins and a small lighthouse. The ruins had a haunting quality, especially with the rain adding to the atmosphere. From what I could gather, these abandoned ruins once belonged to a village whose main duty was to care for the lighthouse, guiding sailors through the treacherous waters. Walking among the ruins, with sheep grazing nearby and the chilly wind biting at our cheeks, we were reminded of the island’s rugged history.
As a well-deserved treat after our long day, we headed to the Vök Baths, a geothermal oasis that was nothing short of magical. Soaking in the warm waters, with steam rising all around us, was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day’s adventures. The geothermal pools were right next to the river, which you can access directly. Grace and I both did the cold plunge/swim!
A very cutesy, very demure Vox Bath compilation
Feeling rejuvenated, we set off for Stuðlagil Canyon campsite (Stuðlagil tjaldsvæði). However, just 20 minutes away from our destination, the road suddenly turned into a rough, unpaved track. Given our recent experience with the flat tire—and the fact that it was already 11:00 PM with no other vehicles in sight—we decided to play it safe. We turned around and headed to a campsite we knew was accessible via the main road…
After this close call, Grace found a helpful link that shows which roads in Iceland are paved and which are not. From that point on, we made sure to check the road conditions before heading out, determined to avoid any more unexpected surprises.
By the time we arrived at Egilsstaðir campsite, it was about midnight. Exhausted but satisfied with how we had navigated the day’s challenges, we made our dinner, settled in and drifted off to sleep.
A glimpse of the inside of our van from my POV. We made it homey. teehee!
END: Egilsstaðir tjaldsvæði
Day 5 - Friday, August 9th, 2024
START: Egilsstaðir tjaldsvæði
We started Day 5 with a small but much-appreciated luxury: making breakfast in the shared kitchen space at our campsite. It was a nice change from the cramped quarters of the camper van, giving us a little room to breathe and stretch out. But as we prepared our meal, the weight of the past few days caught up with us. Grace and I both found ourselves in tears, finally acknowledging just how stressful the journey had been, despite all the beauty we had experienced.
Gracie making breakfast in luxury.
The stress of the flat tire, the lingering fear that something else might go wrong, the anxiety that another tire might pop at any moment—it all came to the surface. But in that moment of vulnerability, we also remembered the Icelandic wisdom that had carried us through: Þetta reddast. Everything will be okay. It was a powerful reminder that worrying about future problems won’t change whether they happen or not. What matters is that we’re here, on this incredible adventure, embracing everything it throws our way.
And what an adventure it is! Yes, it’s scary at times, but it’s also so, so beautiful, marvelous, and wonderful. In that moment, despite the tears, I felt so incredibly alive.
With our emotions acknowledged and our spirits renewed, we set off for the day’s explorations. Our first stop was Rjukandi waterfall. It was a perfect way to refresh ourselves—standing by the rushing water, letting its cool mist wash away the lingering stress of the past few days.
Top picture is of the Rjukandi waterfall. Bottom picture is of the lava volcano trail!
Next, we hiked around Leirhnjúkur, an active volcanic area that felt like stepping onto another planet. The vents and steam rising from the ground, the cooled lava rocks beneath our feet, and the proximity to the lip of an active volcano were both awe-inspiring and humbling. It stirred a curiosity in me—I found myself wanting to learn more about how volcanoes work, the correct terms, the science behind these powerful natural phenomena. It was a reminder of the incredible forces at play beneath the surface of the Earth, and how they shape the world we live in.
We continued our journey with a quick trail walk at Geitafoss, another beautiful waterfall that left us in awe of Iceland’s natural beauty.
After a day of hiking and exploration, we decided we deserved a little pampering, so we made our way to Forest Lagoon, another thermal bath. The warm waters soothed our tired bodies, and as we soaked, I couldn’t help but reflect on how far we’d come—not just in miles, but in our own personal journeys through this trip.
We ended the day at Hamrar campsite, feeling both exhausted and exhilarated. The challenges we faced had only made the rewards that much sweeter, and as I drifted off to sleep, I knew that no matter what tomorrow brought, we were ready for it. After all, Þetta reddast—everything will be okay.
END: Hamrar tjaldsvæði
Day 6 - Saturday, August 10th, 2024
START: Hamrar tjaldsvæði
Day 6 started with a sense of calm as we set out to explore the trails around Fosslaug. The weather was typical for Iceland—cold and wet—but we were undeterred. As we walked, we stumbled upon a natural hot spring, a hidden gem nestled in the landscape. With no changing facilities in sight and no hesitation, we decided to take the plunge in our undergarments. The contrast between the chilly air and the warm, soothing water was nothing short of magical. It was one of those surreal moments that make you feel like you’ve stepped into a dream—a reward for braving the elements and embracing the unexpected.
teehee
After our rejuvenating dip, we continued our journey to Kolugljufur canyon. This place was the epitome of serenity. The canyon stretched out before us, with a waterfall cascading down its rocky walls, creating a peaceful soundtrack to our afternoon. We found a perfect spot to have a picnic—simple PB&J sandwiches that tasted like a gourmet meal in that setting. Grace settled in with her book, and I took out my journal, capturing the day’s experiences in words. There was something so grounding about that moment, just the two of us, surrounded by nature’s beauty, with nothing to do but relax and soak it all in.
What a wonderful place for a lil picnic. On the photo below, can you spot me?!
As the day wound down, we made our way to our next campsite, Sælukotið Árblik. When we arrived, we noticed something different—most of the camper vans and RVs around us belonged to locals. At check-in, the campsite host gave us a heads-up: “There’s a local event happening tonight, so just be aware that there might be a lot of drunk people around.” We couldn’t help but laugh. After everything we’d been through, we weren’t about to let a little noise disrupt our evening. Instead, we embraced it as another quirky chapter in our adventure.
Settling in for the night, we couldn’t help but reflect on the day’s contrast—from the quiet, peaceful moments by the canyon to the lively, celebratory atmosphere at the campsite. It was a reminder of the diverse experiences Iceland had to offer, and how every day brought something new and unexpected. As the night fell and the sounds of the local festivities filled the air, we were content, knowing that we were right where we were meant to be.
END: Sælukotið Árblik tjaldsvæði
Day 7 - Sunday, August 11th, 2024
START: Sælukotið Árblik tjaldsvæði
Day 7 kicked off with an adventure we had been eagerly anticipating—the Viking Sushi Tour with Arctic Adventures. We were on a mission to see puffins, and we knew that a tour would give us the best chance. The Viking Sushi Tour was an experience in itself. As we cruised along the waters, they cast a net and pulled up fresh scallops and sea urchins right before our eyes. And yes, they even provided dipping sauces and chopsticks—an unexpected but delightful touch! The highlight, though, was spotting the puffins. Those tiny, colorful birds fluttering above the waves brought tears to my eyes. It was one of those moments where the beauty of nature just overwhelms you. We also spotted other seabirds and marine creatures, making it a truly magical outing.
Ngl y’all seeing the puffins made me cry teehee. They were so cute. I loved watching em fly over the water.
After the tour, we set off on a trail that led to a natural hot spring. But when we arrived, we found a line of people waiting to take a dip, and the hot spring itself was teeny-tiny. Not wanting to wait around, we decided to skip the soak and instead enjoyed a leisurely walk around the area, taking in the scenery before moving on.
Remember how we made a rule not to backtrack on this trip? Well, we took that rule to heart—so much so that we ended up making a full 360-degree loop, passing our original starting point! But we couldn’t resist the call of one more waterfall in the south/southwest region, so we kept driving and decided to camp in the area for our last night.
Our final hike of the trip took us to a cave canyon waterfall trail, and it was nothing short of mystical. The trail was secluded, the atmosphere serene, and the landscape—simply breathtaking. We passed the famous Gljúfrabúi waterfall, but seeing it crowded with tourists made us appreciate our quieter, more intimate trail even more. The path to the trailhead wasn’t paved, which made us a bit nervous given our previous flat tire trauma. But it was our last full day of camping, and we decided to take the risk. We carefully navigated the rocky, unpaved road, and were rewarded with a trail that felt like something out of a fantasy novel.
The above photo is the entrance to the trail that leads to this underground waterfall seen on the video below
At the end of the hike, we celebrated with a beer, toasting to the beauty of the moment and the incredible journey we’d had. The trail itself was short but challenging, especially near the end where we had to rely on chains to help us navigate the path. It was a fitting end to a trip full of challenges, rewards, and unforgettable experiences.
I love how Grace’s outfit matches our beer! Very cutesy, very demure :p
We ended the day at Langbrók campsite, feeling both exhilarated and a little bittersweet, knowing that our adventure was drawing to a close. But as we settled in for the night, we were content, having made the most of every moment.
Grace snapped this photo of me as a remembrance of her sleeping view for the week
END: Langbrók tjaldsvæði
Day 8, Monday, August 12th, 2024
START: Langbrók tjaldsvæði
Our final day on the road started with an unexpected delight—a coffee stop at the most charming little café, tucked inside an American school bus! As we sipped our drinks, the owner shared the story of how he and his partner had transformed this bus into a cozy coffee shop. They’d only been open for two weeks, and it was clear that this place was special. In the rural areas of Iceland, finding a nice coffee shop is rare, so stumbling upon this gem felt like a real treat. The owner mentioned that most people driving through are on strict itineraries, missing out on hidden treasures like his café. It made me think about the joys of having no set plans—how it allows you to discover the unexpected. (A little food for thought for my readers!)
The coffee shop was inside the school bus!
After our coffee, we stopped at a wool shop and a glass bead shop, indulging in a bit of shopping. The highlight, though, was getting to pet the horses nearby. There’s something so soothing about being close to these majestic animals, and it added a sweet touch to our morning.
With our shopping done, we headed to our Airbnb in Reykjavik, grateful to be able to check in early and drop off our bags. (Pro tip: Always ask if you can check in or drop your bags off early—it makes navigating public transit so much easier!) We then returned our trusty van, which had been our home on wheels for the past week.
Taking public transit back to our Airbnb was another little adventure. There’s something I love about using public transportation in other countries—it gives you a glimpse into the daily life of the locals, a taste of the normalcy that exists alongside the tourist attractions.
Once back at our Airbnb, we indulged in a long, hot shower—the kind that feels like a luxury after days on the road. We got ready to re-enter civilization with a well-deserved dinner that we didn’t have to cook ourselves. As I reflected on our journey, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of pride in what Grace and I had accomplished. We made our own meals, navigated Iceland’s tough terrain, and did it all on our own. Þetta reddast—everything really did work out.
Woohoo! Our cute AirBnB!
For dinner, we downloaded a scooter app and zipped through the streets of Reykjavik, heading downtown. Scootering was so much fun, adding a playful vibe to the evening. We dined at Bastard Brew and Food, and oh my, was it a refreshing meal! After days of camping food, this dinner felt like a feast.
With full bellies, we decided to check out some live music at Hús máls og menningar. The vibe was perfect, the band was incredible, and I couldn’t resist buying a band t-shirt because, well, I love my merch! After their set, the guitarist came around collecting tips, and when he got to us, we struck up a conversation—probably helped by the fact that I was sporting their merch already. His name is Kjartan (he’s a local musician, check out his insta page!), and what started as a brief chat turned into an extended adventure. Kjartan ended up hanging out with us after the show, and we even went to another venue for more live music. It was one of those spontaneous nights that you couldn’t plan if you tried, filled with laughter, music, and new friendships.
By the time we headed back to our Airbnb, it was around 1:00 AM. Scootering through the empty streets of Reykjavik felt like a dream—the city quiet, the landscape bathed in the soft glow of the night. It was the perfect wind-down to an unforgettable trip.
END: AirBnb in Reykjavik, Iceland
Day 9, Tuesday, August 13th, 2024
START: AirBnb in Reykjavik, Iceland
We woke up on Day 9 feeling a bit groggy—thanks to our fun night out, we were nursing slight hangovers. But with no rush to start our day, we eased into the morning with a laid-back vibe. We put on the movie The Shallows with Blake Lively, stretching out and slowly getting ready. Our only plan for the day was to do some souvenir shopping, so we were in full relaxation mode.
Once we were ready to head out, we hopped back on the scooters—seriously, we were obsessed with these things—and zipped over to Kaffihús Vesturbæjar for brunch. The food was absolutely delicious, and scootering there just added to the good vibes.
We had planned to visit a geothermal beach nearby, so we were already dressed in our bathing suits, ready to jump into some warm waters. But as we wandered through downtown, we spotted a tattoo shop. On a whim, we decided to check it out and ended up asking how much it would be to get “Þetta reddast” tattooed. The price was reasonable, and before we knew it, Grace and I were getting matching tattoos! It was such a spontaneous and fun way to commemorate the trip and the mindset that had carried us through every challenge.
After our tattoo adventure, we realized that a soak in the geothermal beach probably wasn’t the best idea with fresh ink, so we decided to skip it. Instead, we kept exploring downtown and focused on our souvenir shopping. My parents had requested some specific items, and I couldn’t help but laugh at my mom’s detailed descriptions of what she wanted. Since my parents had visited Iceland about two years ago, they knew exactly what to ask for. Grace and I had a blast hunting down the perfect souvenirs, and once our shopping bags were full, we decided to return to Kaffihús Vesturbæjar for dinner. What can I say? We loved that place!
As evening approached, we realized we still didn’t have a concrete plan for getting to the airport the next morning. We figured a taxi or ride-share service would be the most convenient option, but here’s the catch: Iceland doesn’t have Uber or Lyft. So, I went online and found a shuttle service that looked reliable. The website recommended booking rides at least 12 hours in advance, and luckily, we were just within that window—it was around 6:00 PM by this point. We booked our ride and waited for a confirmation email.
But here’s the twist—the office had closed at 5:00 PM, and panic set in when we didn’t receive an immediate confirmation. Grace and I quickly started brainstorming backup plans. Plan B was to use the same scooter app, which also offered a ride-share option similar to Uber or Lyft. Plan C was to call taxi services directly. As the anxiety bubbled up, we took a deep breath and reminded ourselves: Þetta reddast. Everything will be okay. After all, this trip had taught us that worrying doesn’t change the outcome—it’s about staying flexible and trusting that things will work out.
END: AirBnb in Reykjavik, Iceland
Day 10, Wednesday, August 14th, 2024
START: AirBnb in Reykjavik, Iceland
The final morning of our adventure dawned with an undercurrent of anxiety, the kind that creeps in when the journey is coming to an end, and the reality of returning to everyday life begins to set in. Grace and I had barely slept, our minds racing with thoughts of getting to the airport, catching our flights, and the bittersweetness of leaving Iceland behind.
At 7:10 AM, the time when our ride was supposed to arrive, Grace peered outside to check if, by some miracle, a car was waiting for us. We had little hope—after all, we never received that confirmation email. Meanwhile, I was poised with the rideshare app open, ready to request another ride. But then, Grace walked back in, a smile spreading across her face as she simply said, “He’s here.”
And just like that, everything fell into place. The tension melted away, replaced by laughter and relief. The universe had our backs once again, reminding us of the phrase that had become the mantra of our journey: Þetta reddast. Everything will be okay. In that moment, we were reminded that even when things seem uncertain, they have a way of working out, often in the most unexpected and delightful ways.
Polaroids from our adventures! Signed the guestbook at Egilsstaðir tjaldsvæði (campsite)
As we made our way to the airport, the weight of the trip settled in—a beautiful, complex mixture of joy, exhaustion, and deep gratitude. The journey had tested us, pushed us beyond our comfort zones, and rewarded us with moments of breathtaking beauty and connection. It had been a journey not just across Iceland, but into our own hearts, where we discovered strength, resilience, and the simple truth that sometimes, you just have to let it be and trust that things will work out.
We both made it home safe and sound, but a part of us will forever remain in Iceland, woven into the fabric of that wild and wondrous land. The landscapes we crossed, the waterfalls we marveled at, the rainbows that greeted us on mountain trails, and the spontaneous tattoos that now mark our skin—all these experiences are stitched into the tapestry of our lives.
The end of this trip isn’t just the closing of a chapter; it’s the beginning of something new. The lessons we’ve learned, the memories we’ve created, and the bonds we’ve strengthened will carry us forward, reminding us that no matter what comes our way, Þetta reddast. We’ll navigate the challenges, embrace the joys, and continue to shape our reality with resilience, creativity, and a little bit of Icelandic magic.
As we returned to our respective homes—Grace to Long Beach, NY, and I to Wilmington, NC—we carried with us not just souvenirs, but a deep sense of wonder and a renewed connection to the world around us. This journey was more than just a trip; it was a reminder that life, in all its unpredictability, is a grand adventure. And oh, how beautiful it is to be alive.
At Long Island, NY! Chillin’ with Grace at her home town since I had a 6 hour layover.
END: Grace:: Long Beach, NY; Liezl:: Wilmington, NC
Downloadable map of our route
Color-coded based on the days! Looking at this makes me so proud of Grace and myself for embarking on this grand adventure.
Personal reflection
♡︎Yeah, the hippy-dippy, woo-woo, spiritual stuffs♡︎
Hi, you made it this far - welcome to my vulnerable thoughts as I journaled my way through Iceland!
Each day in Iceland felt like a new chapter in an ancient epic, a story whispered by the wind and etched into the land by fire and ice. The landscape, ever-changing and enigmatic, revealed itself with every turn, as if the Earth were sharing her most intimate secrets with me. There were moments when I felt as though we were the first and only witness to this raw, unfiltered beauty, standing in a world that seemed untouched by time. The roads were rugged, the weather often wild and unpredictable, and camping tested our endurance in ways we hadn’t imagined. But in every challenge, I found a reminder of my own aliveness—each obstacle a testament to my presence in a world that was both ancient and eternal.
Skogafoss
There were times when it felt like I was teetering on the edge of existence itself, where the remnants of civilization faded into the distance, and the unspoiled wilderness stretched out endlessly before me. In those moments, I could feel the Earth breathing beneath my feet, her volcanic heart pulsing with life, and I understood in the deepest part of my being that the Earth is not just alive as a metaphor—it is alive in the very same way I am. We are made of the same stardust, the same elemental forces that shape mountains and rivers, and in that realization, I found a profound connection to everything around me. I am not separate from this world; I am a conscious stone, rolling and weathering the tides of time alongside the rocks and trees, the rivers and skies.
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon
The wilderness became my confidant, my sanctuary. I cried before waterfalls that echoed my tears in their endless descent. I whispered to the Earth, “Even you cry,” as I watched the water pour from the cliffs, relentless and beautiful, a mirror to the emotions that surged within me. In those moments, I felt the interconnectedness of all things—the mountains, the rivers, the sky—they all embraced me in a way that no human ever could. I felt love, a deep, unwavering love for this planet, for this life, for even the pain that still lingered in the crevices of my heart. Out there, far from the noise and chaos of the world, everything made sense. The wilderness doesn’t judge; it simply is, and it allowed me to just be, fully and completely, with all my flaws and all my strength.
Every hike, every breath of crisp Icelandic air, every moment of stillness beneath the endless sky, was a balm to the fractures in my heart. I was doing hard things—facing the wild elements and my own turbulent emotions—but I wasn’t alone. My friend was by my side, a steady presence, a reminder that love and companionship are the invisible threads that weave us together, even when we feel like we’re coming undone. Together, we weathered the storms—both literal and metaphorical—and found strength in each other’s company.
GrayZel Iceland 2024 Adventure
Iceland gifted me a phrase that will forever resonate in my heart: Þetta reddast. While it’s often translated as “it will be okay,” the essence of this saying reaches far beyond mere reassurance. It’s a reminder that just because “it’ll work out” doesn’t mean you’ll get what you had planned for (the outcome you desire) but rather that you are wise, resourceful, and creative enough to navigate whatever life throws at you. It’s an affirmation that, even when the path takes unexpected turns, you will forge ahead with resilience and adaptability. You will shape your reality with the best of your abilities, and in the end, you will find your way through the wilderness—both the one around you and the one within.
How could I choose a favorite day from this journey? Each moment felt like a revelation, a glimpse into the mysteries of the universe and the intricacies of my own soul. Every day was an adventure, an opportunity to uncover new layers of the world and of myself. And through it all, I held onto a sense of awe and wonder that I hope never fades. This trip wasn’t just about traversing the landscapes of Iceland; it was about traveling deep within, rediscovering the connection to the Earth, to life, and to the love that flows through it all.
Now, even on days when the noise of life drowns out the quiet wisdom of the wilderness, I know that I can find my way back. Back to the wild, back to the Earth, back to myself. Because I am part of this sacred dance—this eternal, beautiful, and mysterious dance of life.
Lots and lots and lots and lots of love & light,
♡︎ Liezl ♡︎